While I am still madly working on it and most of the stuff is just cross posts from this blog, I am pleased to announce that The Glorious Hoof is now live!
Please, feel free to give me any feedback AT ALL. :)
Monday, August 6, 2012
Friday, July 6, 2012
News
Just a quick one (sorry!) to announce that I have bought a domain name and will be blogging over there in the bear future HOWEVER I will continue to cross post here for those of you who have an RSS feed for this blog.
Also in other exciting news - I have FINALLY enrolled in the Diploma of Equine Podiotherapy course after years of deliberation. I start in February next year and I just can't wait. :)
I'll keep you posted!
Also in other exciting news - I have FINALLY enrolled in the Diploma of Equine Podiotherapy course after years of deliberation. I start in February next year and I just can't wait. :)
I'll keep you posted!
Wednesday, June 6, 2012
A Quick Read
I liked this woman's approach. It matches my own attitude that there are 50,000 different ways to do any one thing with a horse, and not one of them is 100% right or wrong.
http://blog.easycareinc.com/blog/hoof-love-not-war/what-to-do-with-that-foot
Keeping an open mind is the key.
http://blog.easycareinc.com/blog/hoof-love-not-war/what-to-do-with-that-foot
Keeping an open mind is the key.
Wednesday, May 2, 2012
Biotin - Quick Notes
A friend recently asked me my opinion of hoof supplementation and in particular biotin supplementation for horses.
There is so much information out there on biotin! While researching I decided to collate the points I thought relevant and put it all in one place here.
- Biotin a water soluble B vitamin.
- Biotin does not affect old hoof growth - like all hoof problems, you
have to grow a new hoof from the coronary band.
- Biotin doesn't make the hoof grow any quicker either - increased movement and other
factors (e.g. nutrition, time of the year) do.
- Researchers are not sure how biotin works - but a lot of horses with shelly, flaky, prone to cracking hooves showed improvement in the hardness of the hoof horn. Hooves showed improved tensile strength and flexibility after prolonged biotin supplementation.
- Most horses produce enough biotin in the gut to satisfy bodily functions (the National Research Council's recommendation is two milligrams (mg.) of biotin daily). Some may benefit supplementation if they genetically have poor quality hoof horn. Therefore some hooves will improve with biotin supplementation, others will not.
- To see results (if any) supplementation will need to be carried out for a minimum of about 6 months (reason being see point 2!).
- It is found that once supplementation stops the new growth often reverts to it's previous inferior state. To continue with the improved hoof, the horse often needs biotin supplementation for life at a reduced maintenance rate of 2 - 3mg daily.
- Dosage rate is debatable. Some say 5mg per day, others say 20mg per day or more. I couldn't find an upper-daily-dosage limit for horses but being a water soluble vitamin, in theory the horse would excrete any it does not need. However some say that the gut may 'forget' how to produce enough biotin if over supplementation occurs. I'm a bit sceptical of that though.
- Some sources say that biotin works better when paired with methionine (an essential amino acid).
So is it worth supplementing biotin?
Like most questions about hooves, it seems to be the answer is 'maybe'.
Note -
I have not supplemented biotin in the past. I have not really seen the need for it in my own horses.
Links/Sourses:
http://www.princealbertstables.com/can_you_influence_hoof_growth.htm
http://www.ker.com/library/equinews/v6n2/v6n204.pdf
http://www.thoroughbredtimes.com/horse-health/1994/july/09/the-biotin-difference.aspx
Wednesday, April 11, 2012
Club Feet Article
If your are technically minded and have a medical and hoof anatomy dictionary handy, have a read of the below article. I found it quite informative!
http://www.equipodiatry.com/article_flexural_deformities.htm
http://www.equipodiatry.com/article_flexural_deformities.htm
Thursday, March 22, 2012
Concavity - Quick Notes
First off, I will offer a quick apology for the long hiatus between posts - life has gotten away from me. Onwards!
You might hear the word 'concavity' thrown around quite a bit in the hoof world.
Concavity describes the dome shape of a horse's hoof.
Concavity (whether it be mild or more noticeable) is the sign of a healthy hoof. Perfect concavity that has a gentle slope all the way to the laminae line is a sign of adequate sole thickness.
The hoof has a concave shape because the solar surface of P3 is also concave. With some horses it is very much so, others the concavity is shallower.
A concave sole is flexible and will sink (be pressed flat) and cause the hoof to expand when loaded (the degree of which depends on about 30,000 factors including hoof, terrain, load force etc etc etc) allowing P3 (which, if you remember, has a slight rotation of 3-5 degrees in the back) to flatten out and become ground parrallel.
Achieving solar concavity is not something you can trim into a hoof - you must certainly NOT cut it out of the sole even if the sole is very thick (except in very special circumstances, as always never say never with hooves!) - but it is a by-product of proper trimming and a sign that you are doing the right thing.
A horse who is developing concavity and sole thickness will often develop a toe callus on the sole in front of the frog. It looks like a flat callused area in a crescent moon shape.
The toe callus is a good indication that you are 'half way' to complete transition (from shoes or prior poor hoof form). You know you are all the way there when the toe callus dissapears, and the solar concavity reaches in a gentle slope all the way to the laminae line.
The hoof throws down a toe callus as a priority because this is the launching pad of the hoof - it takes an incredible amount of force to push the horse into the next step and all that force is directed at the point of breakover - where the toe callus forms. This is also often where your toe will end up once the hoof shortens - but that is another post for another day.
You will find that the horse's sole will change relative to the terrain it is conditioned to - on hard ground, the hoof will loose concavity as it reaches toward the ground for contact. On soft ground, the hoof will cup more as the hoof sinks into the ground and still achieves sole contact.
So that is sole concavity in a nutshell. I hope that gives you a sufficient insight!
You might hear the word 'concavity' thrown around quite a bit in the hoof world.
Concavity describes the dome shape of a horse's hoof.
![]() |
| Here is an example of moderate sole concavity. You can see the gentle shape of the dome from the edges of the frog all the way out to the laminae line (except for that lumpy bar). |
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| A blurry but more obvious example of concavity. |
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| Imagine the ruler is a hard smooth ground surface - ta da! The solar concavity becomes evident. |
Concavity (whether it be mild or more noticeable) is the sign of a healthy hoof. Perfect concavity that has a gentle slope all the way to the laminae line is a sign of adequate sole thickness.
The hoof has a concave shape because the solar surface of P3 is also concave. With some horses it is very much so, others the concavity is shallower.
| Shows the direct correllation between the pedal bone (top of photo, here covered in corium) and the sole. I love this pic, it is very very educational! |
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| Aaaaaaand one more. Is it clear in your mind now? :) |
A concave sole is flexible and will sink (be pressed flat) and cause the hoof to expand when loaded (the degree of which depends on about 30,000 factors including hoof, terrain, load force etc etc etc) allowing P3 (which, if you remember, has a slight rotation of 3-5 degrees in the back) to flatten out and become ground parrallel.
Achieving solar concavity is not something you can trim into a hoof - you must certainly NOT cut it out of the sole even if the sole is very thick (except in very special circumstances, as always never say never with hooves!) - but it is a by-product of proper trimming and a sign that you are doing the right thing.
A horse who is developing concavity and sole thickness will often develop a toe callus on the sole in front of the frog. It looks like a flat callused area in a crescent moon shape.
![]() |
| My old OTTB Beckham had a toe callus - highlighted in red. |
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| Side shot of the same hoof. |
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| Again, highlighted in red in case it isn't clear above. |
The toe callus is a good indication that you are 'half way' to complete transition (from shoes or prior poor hoof form). You know you are all the way there when the toe callus dissapears, and the solar concavity reaches in a gentle slope all the way to the laminae line.
The hoof throws down a toe callus as a priority because this is the launching pad of the hoof - it takes an incredible amount of force to push the horse into the next step and all that force is directed at the point of breakover - where the toe callus forms. This is also often where your toe will end up once the hoof shortens - but that is another post for another day.
You will find that the horse's sole will change relative to the terrain it is conditioned to - on hard ground, the hoof will loose concavity as it reaches toward the ground for contact. On soft ground, the hoof will cup more as the hoof sinks into the ground and still achieves sole contact.
So that is sole concavity in a nutshell. I hope that gives you a sufficient insight!
Tuesday, January 3, 2012
Allie Trim 3.01.11
Pictures (Before on the left, after on the right. Click for full size image, they are pretty big)
Left Front:
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| Note the self trimming in the before pic - because this horse has very little if any separation, the outer wall just chips off without cracking (mostly). |
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| Please note my horse's lovely concavity. (I have a draft post in the works regarding concavity). |
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| Nice straight coronary band , low heels without being squished, nice short toe. |
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| This is the wonky hind foot - the outside wall and heel are running away front the center. I treat it like any other flare and just remove it up to 1/4 up the hoof wall. |
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| Nice bevel to keep the toes short. Hind feet should have short toes to prevent hind end soreness. |
Right Front:
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| Again, not moving correctly. She should have a more upright inside wall, but it clearly is not. I trimmed for an outside heel first landing. |
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| You can see clearly how her outside heel bulb is far bigger and more robust than her inside heel bulb - it is taking most of the force which it should not be. I left the outside heel slightly higher. |
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| Feet look nice and balanced from front to back. |
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| Did not need to touch anything on the bottom of the hoof in this one. Frog much nicer then the other front. |
Right Hind:
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| Sand crack forming. Also, old coronary band knock starting to grow down. |
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| Inside heel bulb much smaller - this is because with proper movement in the hind limb, the inside heel lands first and the outside heel takes the force. |
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| Sorry about the different angles. Beautifully cupped foot this one. :) |
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| Again, short toes, low heels. |
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| Scabby frog starting to peel off. Not harbouring any thrush, so I left it alone. |
| This pic shows a crack beginning to form - it is only in the outer wall for now, but if left on a longer trim cycle it would become worse. |
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